The Mediterranean Diet: A Food Tour of Athens

"Borei na travixo ti fotografia sas?" 

Greek food is more than the gyros, moussaka, and yogurt it's known for - once you align your expectations with the term "Mediterranean Diet," images of fresh seafood, produce, and cheeses come to mind. After some research (YouTube is the best!), we arrived expecting Greek coffee, koulouri, and pies, too.

A food tour of Athens can start off slowly, say, in your AirBNB. Stop by the local bakery for some morning pastries to bring back to your homemade Greek coffee. Our heads were spinning from the abundance of options at Pijos + Naia, a local's stop in Koukaki. Our eyes were bigger than our appetites, and we took too long to order too much. As annoying as we were as tourists on a Monday during the pre-work and school rush, the people serving us (and others being served) were ever so patient in the traditional Greek fashion we came to adore.

The pastries were a hit - so much so that we returned the very next morning. But if you're like me and have only ever made coffee in a French press, you may want to get your coffee elsewhere...

 

Consider the popular Mokka for your morning caffeine. They'll serve it with a Greek/Turkish delight and cookie on the side. If you get there in time, snag a seat outside and people watch!

And while you're out, you may as well grab a few pies and koulouri sandwiches, right? Meliartos is solid, photo-ready choice. After eating your fill, you'll be ready to hit the streets.

Trendspotting: motorbike food delivery in Athens.

After half a day at the Acropolis, we hiked down, hungry for a 2 pm lunch. Arcadia is one of the most highly reviewed restaurants in the area, and they didn't disappoint. Keep in mind that "$" ratings are relative to where you are. Arcadia's "$$-$$$" is not equivalent to the American "$$-$$$" as a beautifully plated and flavorful seafood risotto costs 10 eu. Mmmhmm. And you'll be handed warm, goofy service on the side... You'll see.

Of course there are other grab-and-go options if you're itching to see and do more. Stop by Souvlaki Row, a tourist classic, and consider the souvlaki, gyros, and kebabs. Souvlaki Row is exactly what it sounds like - the competition over which is best is still up for debate, but we went to Bairaktari's Taverna. 3.50 for a lamb gyro that's probably larger than you can actually stomach.

For the record, of all the gyros we ate, Yogi's in Santorini was my favorite. What's better than gyros at midnight when you're jetlagged?

If you need a break from eating, then go food souvenir shopping. Of all the places we've ever visited, I've never been more inspired to cook. Think honey, balsamic, olive oil, dried figs, spices, sea salt, Greek saffron, lavender, thyme, chalvas, homemade baklava and loukoumi, jams and preserves, brikki, olive wood carved utensils and tableware, and Greek cookies. Olives are a polarizing food, but Greece has converted me into a fan.

Bought a little bottle of cold-pressed olive oil from a family-owned operation, ROE. I've used it as a finishing oil - as sparingly as possible, because it's just that good.

Athen's Central Market is another tourist-must-see. Don't imagine it to look like Madrid's Mercado de San Miguel or Barcelona's La Boqueria. It's a little grungier, but I liked the unassuming, unpretentious environment. 

Daily act of resistance.

After taking this photo, the men in the red and yellow turned around and waved at me, wanting to be in the photo.

As you walk down the streets, you might find yourself romanced by a nutty fragrance. Koulouri is a sesame-studded ring-shaped "bagel;" koulouri to Athens is like a pretzel to New York City. Unlike a bagel, however, it's not doughy. It's slightly sweet, crisp, slightly chewy from the sesame, and has that beautifully toasted, caramel-y note quintessential to the Maillard reaction. Like NYC hot dog and halal carts, you'll find koulouri stands everywhere, but Koulourades churns them out fresh and cheap.

Now not all of our food experiences were positive. Some were disappointing, but I'll detail the highlights:

Atlantikos - nautical-themed decor and menu. Not worth it. What was worth it was our dinner at Lolos. We had just flown in from Santorini and wandered the streets of Koukaki, wondering which restaurant would be the best compromise for our varied tastes. Drawn by the lively music and buzz at Lolos, we decided to enter, expecting a smoke-filled coffee bar. Upon entering, young waitrons were quick to make room in the incredibly tight and busy space. We didn't know what to order and sometimes a waiter's recommendation can be a hit or a miss, but this was a clear bulls-eye. 

47 euros for darn good Greek mezes, toasted table bread we saw delivered fresh, families dancing and singing to Greek tunes. Nothing could tarnish this experience. No holier-than-thou attitudes and authentic Greek culture experienced firsthand. The waitrons siped wine as they worked and the cook smiled from the kitchen as he worked. The large party of 12 sitting next to us feasted on 3 plates of fries, mixed grilled platters, hand pies, politiki (cabbage salad). We were the only tourists in the place but never felt more at-home. There was more food than we could finish, and I'll repeat - 47 euros for 5 people. 

 

Another to avoid - Kiku Kolonaki. 4 eu for a half cup of rice? Mmm, not for us. 

We wandered back to get 2.80 eu gyros from the diner-esque Royals and went to our AirBNB to watch YouTube videos about Greece. For whatever reason, as insignificant as that moment seems, I hold it close to my heart.

And with that, this Greece travel series comes to an end. Thanks for following along, and if you've missed anything, check out the links below:

Journey to Fira, Santorini
Travel Guide to Santorini
The Oracle at Delphi
Golden Hour at Meteora
Ancient Athens
Kalampaka and Meteora by Day
The Streets of Athens